Alexander McQueen

As many fashion aficionados know, Alexander McQueen ended an amazing career and creative contribution to the art world last spring when he took his own life. Not much more than a year later he is being honored with a show of his work. To say that McQueen's work is theatrical and romantic is like saying bunnies are fuzzy. Fashion was his medium but the man truly was a genius when it came to thematically infusing literature and social commentary into shockingly beautiful garments. Savage Beauty is a collection of McQueen's work over the last 10 years. Upon entering the dark, gothic, almost tomb-like space the audience was met with ambient and wind noises as their eyes adjusted to the low candle-like lighting. The space was wall to wall distressed mirrors framing displays of the work.

Many of his seasons were shown but what specifically stood out to me had to do with his use of materials for expression. For example, since the garments were displayed on mannequins rather than models, each had a head cover that tied into the garment itself. Many pieces had a sadomasochistic quality to them due to their use of leather and the lack of acknowledgment of features. This translated to the head gear that was leather wrapped. The use of red rhinestones as blood slashes in the surface of the masks was beautifully horrifying. He admitted that he played with the idea of accessories as a form of masochism. Anyone who has seen the glorious fetters he calls shoes will understand. This sentiment extends to a variety of other body adornment such as a red liquid latex top that protects the skin from a metal crown of thorns. His series about the horrors and violence Scottish history is shown through a series called Highland Rape and features his own family's plaid in various stages of destruction.

As an interesting tangent of history he nods at Heironimous Bosch's Garden of Earthly Delights with dresses constructed of fabric featuring the painting. A complete counterpoint of these haunted and violent pieces was his series exhibiting a love of the feminine. He made several series that focused on various forms of romanticism. From the more exotic interpretation utilizing primitive elements like alligator head shoulder pads, jute headpieces and the most heartbreakingly beautiful chartreuse beaded top over a skirt made of hair. Naturalism and Victorian influences use floral inspiration in various ways. His Victorian pieces were inspired by fading wallpaper and focused on the feminine qualities of a woman's physique- going as far as exaggerating it to create the form of the dresses. He included hip pads to make the dress more sensual. A real standout to me was the wedding dress paired with stag-horns that pierced the $2000 piece of fabric that functioned as a veil. I also loved his use of unusual materials like Pheasant feathers on a classic Victorian high-necked gown and flowers that spilled from the sleeves of his dresses.